Monday, 31 October 2005

Poland (2



As one of many impoverished by the financial crisis,I intended to spend this month in the U.K. & enjoy what is supposed to be "flaming June".
However,the lure of Poland & warmer climes once more got the better of me & here we are again in Crakow(or Krakow) :-

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Besides you can live cheaper in Poland than you can in England. Our flights cost 99p. A decent hotel is 20 quid ,last night we had a lovely meal in a beautiful restaurant(the Pod Sloncem) at just over £6 for two. A good pint in a restaurant will set you back as little as 90p. What more could you ask for?

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Postby Ken » 19 Jun 2009 09:22 am
My objectives this time are to track down the missing pieces of my Crakow holocaust remembrance project and also to learn at first hand the Polish experience under Soviet rule.
You could call it "The story of two occupations". What terrible luck these people have had.
Just to pick up the threads from my bit on the subject under "Photographs" -- Poland ,I started off revisiting Oskar Schindler`s factory to see how its transformation into a museum was progressing.Here is the opportunist pic taken two years ago of me sat at Osckar Schindler`s desk in his office at the Deutsche Emaillewaren-Fabrik :-

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This time it was a big disappointment .
The characterisitic appearance of the outside has been ruined by painting it all a light grey(even the factory sign has gone).Inside,the atmospheric feeling of haunting memories is no more. His office desk ,the book of Jewish names , his coat-hanger , etc., have now gone and in their place a video presentation.
On the factory floor the machinery has all gone,the walls & floors all freshly painted with nothing but pictures and historic description on the walls. :cry:
You could set up this exhibition anywhere.I must admit that I`m not a museum person. I like to experience at least a bit of the real thing. Two years ago I was pleased to hear that they`d got a grant to turn it into a museum.
Now I wish they`d left well alone.

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Postby Ken » 19 Jun 2009 05:15 pm
The final pieces of my Nazi occupation jigsaw are to be found in the areas of Kazimierz , Podgorze and Plaszow.
Whilst its almost impossible to match the beauty of Crakaw , Kazimierz is very nice in its own right :-

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For well over 500 years Jews and Catholics have lived together there in harmony.The building you can see in the above pic at the far end of ul.Szeroka square is the oldest and largest synagogue in Poland (if not the world ) -- Synagoga Isaaka.

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Postby Ken » 20 Jun 2009 10:45 am
In September,1939 there were almost 70,000 Jews living in Crakow. As soon as the Germans entered the city they took away the rights of all of them. Pensions & free health care stopped immediately.Those aged between 14 and 60 were taken into forced labour.The situation became gradually worse. In April 1940 the majority of Jews were "resettled" , leaving only 16,000 remaining in Crakow. Then in March 1941 the Germans started establishing Jewish ghettos throughout Poland.
The remaining 16,000 here were ordered over the Vistula into Podgorze. Perimeter walls were built.The nazis had a cruel sense of humour & designed the walls to look like a series of matzevahs (Jewish gravestones). Here`s a pic I took yesterday :-

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16,000 people were crammed into a few streets comprising only 320 buildings.There were long queues to use the toilets,hunger prevailed and many were reduced to living in passages or on the street.
Here`s another remaining part of the ghetto wall :-

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Postby Ken » 20 Jun 2009 05:09 pm
There were many unsung heroes,one being Tadeusz Pankiewicz -- a non-Jew who ran the local pharmacy , called "The Pharmacy Under the Eagle". When the ghetto was created all non-Jews were relocated elsewhere in Crakow. However Pankiewicz decided to stay & help as many of his fellow countrymen as he could regardless of religious denomination.
This was an incredible risk.He could have been shot at any time for smuggling,hiding people,etc.
He created a hiding place behind this cabinet :-

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In the film "Schindlers List" , on the day of the final liquidation of the ghetto ,you saw this cabinet just behind Pankiewsicz who was measuring out cyanide doses for the nurses to administer to the sick in the hospital to put them out of their misery before the Nazi`s could get to them.

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Postby WillyLad » 20 Jun 2009 11:40 pm
A sad tale Ken but one we shouldn`t forget. Thanks for yet another fascinating insight.
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Postby Firefly » 21 Jun 2009 10:02 am
I really look forward to these travels Ken particulaly informative ones like this. Thank you very much.
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Postby Ken » 21 Jun 2009 04:39 pm
Thanks for taking the interest Willylad & Firefly.
The next pic may seem insignificant but it represents a very significant point in history.Any literature you read tells you that the spot from where it was taken is unacessible (actually they aren`t far wrong!).I took this shot from a precarious position using a telescopic lens.

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What you see is the view Schindler had whilst out for a horse ride on Lasota Hill, Podgorze.He looked down into Lwowska street and was horrified to see the remaining ghetto survivors being herded out into the street,punched,kicked,beaten up & many shot. This was intended by the Nazis to be the final eradication of the Jewish population in that district.Those not murdered on the spot were to be herded into the cattle wagons to Auschwitz .
The thing that cut Schindler up most was the sight of the little girl in the red coat having to witness this brutality.
Fortunately even at the tender age of five she had the sense to nip off when the guards weren`t looking. She snook into that dark doorway you see on the left & lived to survive the war. Her name was Roma Ligocka.She happened to be the cousin of Roman Polanski and her story "The Girl in the Red Coat" is well worth reading ( ISBN 0-340-81906-5 ).
The sight had a dramatic effect on Schindler.He went on to make several dangerous journeys to Budapest & Istanbul to liase with Jewish leaders with a view to seeking help from the major powers to stop these atrocities. He also saved the lives of hundreds of Jews at his factory & its thanks to him that the Jewish cummunity of that area has survived.

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Postby Kristof » 21 Jun 2009 07:38 pm
Excellent stuff Ken, keep it coming.


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Postby Nortonbeak » 21 Jun 2009 08:47 pm


Ken wrote:the sight of the little girl in the red coat having to witness this brutality.
Ken.

The film "Schindlers List" was shown entirely in black and white, with the single exception of the little girl in the red coat.

Incidentally, "Schindlers List" was the most expensive black and white film ever to be produced.


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Postby DoctorBeaker » 22 Jun 2009 07:32 am
Fascinating detail Ken, and so, so sad!


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Postby Ken » 22 Jun 2009 05:55 pm
Yes . It is sad. I think its well worth publicising though. The dreadful times that these people had to endure was bad enough but I think that to be fogotten would be even worse.
A bit further up from the ghetto at Podgorze are the remains of the Plaszow concentration camp featured in Schindler`s List (again not open to the public & difficult to gain access). Now overgrown with willows,that`s the main entrance where you saw Schindler meet from time to time with his accountant,Herr Stern :-

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Not much left of it now :-

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Postby Admin » 22 Jun 2009 06:10 pm
With Ken's permission I have set up a travel blog for ken at www.shildon.net/ken eventually it will host all Ken's travels, and hopefully responses from visitors. Unfortunatley you cannot use your forum id to log in, but all comments are moderated, so if you leave a message it will be posted.

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Postby Ken » 22 Jun 2009 07:18 pm
Thanks Admin for all the work you`ve put into that.

As well as the physical deprivations,the Germans never missed an opportunity to humiliate the Jews or desecrate their religion. The Plazow concentration camp was built on a Jewish cemetery and this is the main road in :-

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The Jews were made to break up the tombstones of their forefathers and use them to form the road to be trodden on.
Thousands of Jews were murdered here but quite often when "selections" were being marched from the Ghetto to Plaszow, those deemed unfit for work were taken to this old Austrian fort & shot :-

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The fort is totally direlict now & almost inaccessible. Its situated on Lazoty Hill just behind the spot where Schindler was so moved by the girl in the red coat.

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Postby Ken » 22 Jun 2009 11:06 pm
Before leaving Podgorze I should mention that both Oskar Schindler and the pharmacist ,Pankiewicz were given the highest Gentile honour -- The Righteous among the Nations --- by the Jewish community.
Its also worth a quick look at the magnificent Church of St.Joseph :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 22 Jun 2009 11:19 pm
We move on now to the North West suburbs of Crakow to search for the infamous Pomarski prison.Schindler was jailed three times by the Germans -- once for alleged paperwork fraud ,once for the more serious "crime" of kissing a Jewish girl and finally for his "business associations" with Amon Goeth. One of the prisons he was sent to was in ul.Pomarski.
My task was more difficult than I could have imagined.The prison had been "mothballed" since the end of the war & wasn`t open to the general public. My first attempt to find someone with a key was fruitless & wasted a lot of time.At the second attempt the day after ,however, I did locate a caretaker with a key.Unfortunately he didn`t speak a word of English but we got there in the end. The cells were horrendous,No windows-- part tiled :-

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---- and part bare with just a crude concrete seat:-

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Postby Ken » 22 Jun 2009 11:36 pm
I was hoping that Schindler may have been a scribbler --- but no joy!
However I took the opportunity to take pics of several scribbles / etchings & I`ll post a few of these and attempt to translate over the next few days :-

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These were probably the last words of the poor souls who wrote them.

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Postby DoctorBeaker » 23 Jun 2009 07:22 am
My God! And then we moan if it rains or if we have to wait at the checkout or if we get a flat tyre don't we? I can't begin to imagine the depths of misery those awful cells must have absorbed.


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Postby Ken » 23 Jun 2009 07:15 pm
And the vast majority of those poor people had done nothing wrong.

As a memorial , the main square of Podgorze, which was formerly the Maly Rynek,then the Umschlagplatz under the Nazis and then Plac Zgody -- has been renamed Plac Bohaterow Getta :-

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After the liquidation of the ghetto there was devastation everywhere. What was left of the inhabitants` furniture was smashed & scattered all over the place & the square was littered with broken chairs.
The 68 metal chairs are a reminder of this and also provide seats of reflection. One faces the tragic cul-de-sac on one side of the square where hundreds of children were slaughtered. Two others face the direction of the route taken by those who were "selected" for the concentration camp and the remainder face the centre of the ghetto.

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Postby Ken » 23 Jun 2009 11:17 pm
On January 19th 1945 Soviet troops "liberated" Crakow. There was dancing in the streets. Freedom at last !
If only they`d known.
This was to be the false dawn of all false dawns.
The second part of "A story of two occupations" starts tomorrow when ( with the communist company , driver and car used by Michael Palin in his recent series) we experience life under the soviets.
----- only we scratch deeper beneath the surface than Palin did !

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Postby Wiccan woman » 24 Jun 2009 08:27 am


DoctorBeaker wrote:My God! And then we moan if it rains or if we have to wait at the checkout or if we get a flat tyre don't we? I can't begin to imagine the depths of misery those awful cells must have absorbed.

I agree DB we dont know we are born really and we should never forget what these people endured.


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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 11:41 am
The Soviets hated the Cracovians for two reasons. First Crakow was a centre of culture and learning--a city of universities and theatres. Second, in the so-called "Peoples` Referendum" of 1946, Crakow was the only district to vote against communism.
The soviets decided then that Crakow should be destroyed. Obviously they couldn`t do this by immediate hostilities such as bombing,etc so they decided to confiscate all the fertile farming land east of Crakow and built the world`s biggest steel works there,despite the fact that it was not an economic location.There were no natural resources there and the ore had to be imported from the Ukraine. There was little pollution control and the works belched out continuous clouds of smoke,poisonous acrid fumes,particulate dust,sulphur dioxode,napthalene,etc. straight down the prevailing wind to Crakow.
This soon had the intended devastating effect on the once beautiful buildings of the city and on the health of its people. They also cut off all funding to the city so there could be no restoration or even essential repairs.
When Roman Polanski returned to his home there after a fifteen year absence,he was shocked to see the dying city. Buildings were in a state of collapse and many roads were taped or barricaded off due to lack of maintenance.
Its nothing short of miraculous that the Poles were able to stop the rot and restore the city to its original glory when they finally won true independance from the soviets .

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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 12:23 pm
At the same time with a view to replacing Crakow,the soviets started to build what was planned as the biggest city in Eastern Europe --- Nowa Huta (New steel). It would be upwind of the steel works of course so as to suffer little pollution. The plan was to have eight huge boulevards running outwards from the city centre :-

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The above map shows how the top (northern ) half of the city was built according to plan. You can clearly see 5 of the boulevards but I couldn`t get to the bottom of why the other three weren`t completed.The most likely explanation I heard was a change in preferred housing layouts.
However, the city was largely completed according to plan & eventually housed a quarter of a million people.
This old arial photo gives an idea as to the grandeur of the city centre :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 03:46 pm
And now to the real thing. My trusty guide into the red past is Comrade Mataeuz and this is his beloved car in which he frightened the life out of Michael Palin :-

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The car is an old Trabant -- a 500cc air-cooled machine built by VEB Sachsenring Automobilwerke Zwickau.
Mataeuz(Mat) not only drove me to every nook & cranny of the communist past but also entrusted me to drive his pride and joy. I soon mastered the steering column gear shift and the semi-synch gears(all 3 of them) but kept on making that good old British mistake of driving on the wrong side of the road.
On one occasion I went round a roundabout on the right side but ended up leaving it on the wrong side just as a van driver was coming the other way. I couldn`t quite translate Mat`s expletives as the van driver mounted the pavement shaking his fist !

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Postby Chel » 24 Jun 2009 06:29 pm
Wow . I can`t keep up with your travels ! Great photo's as per norm.

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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 10:30 pm
Cheers Chel.
This is the impressive entrance to the giant steel works:-

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Well fenced and heavily guarded so no way in.

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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 10:43 pm
Mat tells me that its true that under the communist regime all men were equal and this where they dined:-

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This is a soviet restaurant known by the locals as a "milk bar". There was only one choice each day & we had a most unusual lunch which he told me later was locally shot pigeon in a baked cabbage wrap.

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Postby Ken » 24 Jun 2009 10:47 pm
And this where those who were even more equal ate :-

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No pigeon & cabbage here ---- more quail and caviare. Unfortunately we only had room (& time) for a beer.

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Postby Ken » 25 Jun 2009 10:57 am
The Central Square is actually quite nice.I was told that this was where the elite lived,mainly high ranking party members :-

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However,the huge tenement complexes where the less equal (such as my friend Mataeus) lived,were not quite so inviting :-

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One lady told how her family ended up here. Her father had been a hard working man who started off in Crakow with nothing.He built up a successful business which was confiscated by the communists along with his home.He was replaced by a party member manager who was also given the house.He was left destitute & with no alternative but to work in the steel works & move his family to Nowa Huta.

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Postby Ken » 25 Jun 2009 02:29 pm
Mat`s mother`s apartment comprised 3 tiny rooms -- a kitchen , one bedroom and this lounge with its ancient T.V. :-

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---- on which he showed us an old propaganda video she`d saved. It tells of the perfect life to be had in the land of Nowa Huta.A world in which all men are equal. Of easy work with short hours and good pay. Luxury accomodation with all mod cons and no rent. Good food for all , sport ,recreation,companionship.This would indeed be utopia.
It was a good idea not to express doubts about these claims. Those who did disappeared in the night.
Most farmers had no choice but to move to Nowa Huta as their land had been seized to make way for the works. However many farmers with land that wasn`t in the area needed for the works refused to move and were publicly slated in the propaganda.
I just caught the tail-end of the caption on this bit but it says it all :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 26 Jun 2009 09:01 am
The kitchen was tiny but contained all the essentials of Polish life :-

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The bathroom wasn`t much bigger but contained all mod cons --- its own water heater,a bath (O.K. if you were less than 5ft tall),a shower ,hairdrier and a washing machine ---- a Berco-ski perhaps ??

Image

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Postby Ken » 26 Jun 2009 04:24 pm
The toilet flush was unusual & took a deft flick of the wrist to work :-

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The view from the window wasn`t bad :-

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And lets face it , many were better off. The destitute,the unemployed,many gypsies,smallholders scratching a living on the land -- most had never experience hot running water,showers,indoor flush toilets,etc.
But many more were worse off -- those whose businesses had been nationalised,redundant school teachers,those whose homes had been commandeered,etc..
Another lady told how her parents ,who lived in a nice part of Crakow,had a couple of party members "billetted" into their home. Her father had been a professional man & they`d worked and saved all their lives to develope their lovely home.They didn`t dare object and after a few weeks the party members demanded a third room .Then took over sole use of the kitchen.Eventually the poor house owners were squeezed into the smallest bedroom & would have had to buy cooking equipment to use in there. At this stage they could take no more & complained to the authorities.
They were given 3 days to vacate the property. Had her father not taken a menial job at the steel works and a dingy apartment at Nowa Huta,they would have been destitute.

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Postby Ken » 26 Jun 2009 05:07 pm
A couple of posters showing what fun it would be for the families of those working for the state :-

Image Image

We`d covered a fair number of miles that day & needed to know how much petrol we had left. Unfortunately the Trabant has no petrol gauge so we had to dip the tank :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 26 Jun 2009 06:45 pm
Nowa Huta was by its very communist nature an atheist city but housed thousands of Catholic citizens.For years they pleaded with the authorities to ba allowed to build a place of worship but were refused. Instead they errected a cross to mark a place where they could gather to worship at a spot where they hoped to eventaualy build their church.
In April 1960 , the communist authorities tried to remove the cross and this resulted in a protest & the spilling of much blood. Over 4,000 local protesters fought with police.Explosives,water cannon,tear gas and vicious dogs were used on the demonstrators. Hundreds were killed or badly injured, 493 were arrested and 87 sentenced to long terms of imprisonment.
However the cross remained and in 1967 the people started to build their own church. Obviously they got no support from the authorities but they received appreciable financial assistnce from the Polish community of America.
They had no machinery and built the church by hand. It took them 10 years. The church remains the same after 30-odd years as my pic shows here :-

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As you can see, it was very modern for the time. The English translation of the name of the church is "The Church of our Lady , Queen of Poland".

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Postby Ken » 26 Jun 2009 10:19 pm
And the rest,as they say,is history.
When the authorities doubled the price of food in 1980 , it was the straw that broke the camels back.
There were strikes throughout Poland mainly led by shipworkers at Gdansk where Lech Walesa was elected leader & Solidarity came to the fore culminating with the union`s overwhelming success in the forthcoming elections.
Walesa was elected president in 1990 in the first free elections which heralded the post-communist era.

The soviets forgot to take all their tanks home with them though !!

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Postby Daffy » 27 Jun 2009 09:59 am
Thank you Ken for sharing such another interesting journey ..... brilliant ! :D


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Postby Ken » 28 Jun 2009 10:16 pm
Thanks Daffy. And now I`ll finish with just a few nice pics of the beautiful Crakow. Here`s a few of the old market square --the Rynek Glowny :-

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St.Mary`s church (See "Photographs" -- Poland Part 1 for story of trumpeter) :-

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Postby Ken » 29 Jun 2009 05:06 pm
And part of the interior :-

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Its worth a look into any of Poland`s beautiful catholic churches But this one has so many facets. Every part is worth a photograph. This was just one of them.

Here`s another :-

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Postby Ken » 29 Jun 2009 07:53 pm
In the same square is the old Cloth Market :-

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Postby Phil C » 30 Jun 2009 10:07 pm
Hi Ken & Friends

Here is a translation of the 2 pics from the prison walls.

The first:

Mika, Czesiek isn't scared, he'll die for his homeland.

Help me, St Mary

The second:

I'll never see you again, but dont worry, I`'ll die with your name and Poland in my mouth, God, bless me.

Zdzisiu (a name) I love you


Regards

Phil & Marta


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Postby Michelle » 01 Jul 2009 10:26 am
How very very sad. It was hard to hold back the tears when reading that. Thanks Phil and Marta for the translation & Ken for bringing this piece of tragic history to our attention.
Michelle


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Postby Wiccan woman » 01 Jul 2009 11:40 am
They are fantastic photos Ken and even better was the way in which you told the stories, they were so good and thank your friend Jacek for the translation, it gave me goosebumps reading what those Polish words meant.


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Postby Ken » 02 Jul 2009 08:53 am
Thanks Wiccan Woman. Thanks also Phil & Marta for taking an interest and translating.
I should explain that my Polish freind Jacek disappeared many months ago & several attempts to trace him have failed.
Phil spends much of his time in Poland and has taken over Jacek`s username & password. Marta is Phil`s Polish fiance and lives in Crakow..
After all the sad things I`ve been posting here , the bright side is that Marta & Phil are to marry in the very near future.
I thank them both for their help over the year and wish them every happiness for the future.

Ken.


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Re: Ken`s JUNE postcard.


Postby Wiccan woman » 02 Jul 2009 04:11 pm
Poor Jacek, wonder what happened, it doesnt sound good does it, lets just hope he turns up ok eventually.

Congratulations Marta & Phil hope they have a wonderful life together.


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Re: Ken`s JUNE postcard.


Postby Ken » 04 Jul 2009 10:01 am
And so once more its goodnight & goodbye Crakow :-

Image


SUMMARY :-

Would I recommend a holiday in Crakow ?
Definitely.

Why ?
1.) Its a beautiful city.The Market Square (Rynek Glowny) has been voted the best in the world every year since 2005.
2.) The Poles are the most freindly & helpful I`ve come across. Even the youngsters are civil & will indicate you to enter first or give up their seat on a bus.
3.) The choice of good restaurants & good food has to be seen to be believed.
4.) As I mentioned in my first post , everything is so cheap. We found it so two years ago when there were 4 Zloty to the pound. This year we got 5.3. (Its best to take GBP. Whilst the best we could get was 4.8 in U.K. , it was 5.3 in Crakow).
5.) Our flights were 99p ( Still less than 20 quid with taxes ,etc)
6.) There are so many interesting things to see, both in the city & the surrounding area.
7.) If ,on the other hand,you just want a nice relaxing holiday,its an ideal place to stroll round.Whilst there`s no sea & sand , the Vistula has promenades stretching for miles which make for lovely walks or cycle rides.
8.) The weather --- whilst very cold in the winter,Poland has short springs & autumns but a long hot & sunny summer stretching from early May to late September.

All being well ,we`ll be back next year -- this time to explore the Tatra mountains & Zakopane.

Ken.


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Re: Ken`s JUNE postcard.


Postby Ken » 05 Jul 2009 01:31 pm
ADDENDUM
The film "Schindlers List" was excellent and its content accurate in every detail. However,Spielberg omitted quite a bit of Schindler`s story. Its often thought that Schindler saved around 1100 jews. In fact the true total is nearer 4 or 5 thousand . As well as those he saved working in his own factory , he helped the German industrialist, Julius Madritsch save many hundreds more in his textile factory.
When Oskar`s factory move to Brinnlitz in Moravia, he also undertook dangerous journeys and black market dealings to aquire a better food supply for his own Jewish workers and those in neighbouring camps.This in iteslf saved the lives of hundreds more.
Then in the final months of the war he "converted" Oberleutenant Sussmuth who helped him connive to rescue a further 3,000 women out of Auschwitz in groups of 300 & 500 at a time & into the small factory camps of Freudenthal,Jagerndorf,Liebau.Grulich and Trautenau in Moravia.
Schindler was a brave man indeed. Praise should also go to his long suffering wife, Emilie, who herself took risks in lessening the suffering of the Jews.
After the war , Schindler became a farmer in Argentina. His farm went bankrupt in 1957 after 10 years.He then started up a cement factory which was successful until a series harsh winters crippled the construction industry & in turn his business (1961). He then gave evidence at the Nuremberg trials in 1967 which helped bring many war criminals to justice.
Then after working years with the "German Friends of the Hebrew University", he died of hardening of the arteries & was buried in Jerusalem.

Ken.


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Re: Ken`s JUNE postcard.


Postby Ken » 10 Jul 2009 02:36 pm
CARBON FOOTPRINT
Bye the way its worth bearing in mind that for a few quid extra on your flight you can pay a voluntary "Climate Levy" which I`m told goes towards replacing lost trees & more than makes up for the environmental effects of your travel.

Ken.


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Re: Ken`s JUNE postcard.


Postby Kattaddorra » 10 Jul 2009 05:59 pm
Wonderful and very touching photos as always Ken and brilliant write ups about your travels too. Thank you so much for sharing your journey with us again.
Katt :)