Ken's Travels: 2010

Sunday, 28 March 2010

Atlas Mountains

Weather here in North Africa is beautiful -- blue skies , sun and temps in upper twenties. However , this is the most scary trip I`ve ever been on. Only just managed to reach our first destination in the Atlas mountains after 2 days of travel. The abnormal rains had just finished & had caused terrible damage in the lower areas with dwellings, people and animals washed away or stranded. Tens of thousands dead or homeless. Our journey through the mountains was a nightmare with landslides, roads washed away & collapsed bridges.
We`d hardly recovered from that ordeal when , a few days later ,we were captured by arabs at knife point. Pics to follow later.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 28 Mar 2010 04:58 pm

In some areas the land was flooded as far as the eye could see :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Kristof » 29 Mar 2010 05:16 pm

I'm looking forward to this one Ken, you sure know how to have an adventure.

Kristof: Posts: 1063; Joined: 01 May 2005 10:57 am; Location: Billingham

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 29 Mar 2010 06:50 pm

Thanks Kristof --- but I`m afraid that this has been one "adventure" too many. After that my wife wouldn`t even venture out to Marske by herself last night to get some chinese grub in ! :cry:

:cry:

We have talks with both the British & the Moroccan embassy tomorrow.
This was the worst of the damaged bridges in the Atlas mountains. The whole bridge had dropped a few feet & you could see the foundations washed away down the hillside to our right. There was a good foot to 18inches missing across the middle. The local arabs had tried to fill the gap with rocks and straw :shock:

:shock:

:-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Kattaddorra » 31 Mar 2010 07:29 am

What a frightening experience Ken :shock:

:shock:

I think I'd be like your wife and not dare go out far now either.
Thank goodness you got safely back home !
Katt

Kattaddorra: Posts: 1025; Joined: 15 Jun 2005 12:32 pm; Location: shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Daffy » 31 Mar 2010 05:28 pm

It is very very scary experience by the looks of it Ken, hope you get some answers from the Embassies and you and your wife recover from the shock etc soon :cry:

:cry:

Daffy: Posts: 444; Joined: 01 Jul 2005 07:06 pm; Location: Billingham

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 01 Apr 2010 06:26 pm

Thanks Daffy & Katt. I`ve just finished a seven page report. One consolation is that I got some fantastic pics. My main computer has been down since Monday so I haven`t had chance to post them. I`ll start when I get back from a meeting tonight.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 02 Apr 2010 10:13 am

Pleased you got home safe and sound Ken...x

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 02 Apr 2010 10:30 am

Thanks WW. Here`s the first of some very colourful pics. In the small towns we came across street sellers of all shapes,sizes & dress :-

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 02 Apr 2010 11:00 am

Our first stay was in Meknes in the Atlas mountains. Meknes was the ancient capital of Morocco. Its famous for its beautiful city entrances or gates :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 04 Apr 2010 10:58 am

Behind those gates is the medina where you can buy almost anything. The area around Meknes is one of the most fertile in North Africa & there`s an abundance of fresh fruit all year round :-

If you weren`t vegitarian before you came here , you would be before you left. All the other pics I took in this stretch were far too gruesome to post :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 05 Apr 2010 05:34 pm

More to my taste -- one of the best selections of olives & dates I`ve seen :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 06 Apr 2010 05:35 pm

Or if you had a sweet tooth , the variety of confection was amazing (if you could turn a blind eye to all the flies & wasps who also found them attractive) :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by WillyLad » 06 Apr 2010 10:09 pm

Great travels and pics again Ken. What happened with the knive wielding arabs then ?

WillyLad: Posts: 198; Joined: 04 Jul 2004 09:33 am; Location: Ex Willington

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 07 Apr 2010 08:33 am

Brilliant photos Ken, so colourful.
Yes what did happen to those thugs ....

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 07 Apr 2010 10:44 am

It was in Tangier . They appeared from nowhere. I couldn`t see what was happening to my wife as I was being held facing the opposite direction with a knife held at my stomach. One of them had a knife at my wife`s throat. A 4-wheel drive was coming towards us & I thought we were going to be bundled into the back. I was just about to grab my wife & shout "Lets take a chance & make a run for it" , when the 4 wheel drive pulled up & the driver sat with his hand continuously held on the horn. The noise was enough to panic them & they ran off.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 08 Apr 2010 01:08 pm

What is amazing about this part of North Africa is the total lack of any form of mechanisation from tilling the land by one man & a hoe to making just about everything. These guys are making matresses :-

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Michelle » 08 Apr 2010 07:41 pm

Fascinating Ken. And usual excellent quality photos. What camera do you use ?
Michelle

Michelle: Posts: 828; Joined: 27 Feb 2004 11:27 pm; Location: Wynyard

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 09 Apr 2010 08:38 am

So pleased everything ended well for you and your wife...what a shocking experience.

You have still managed to take some good photos though.

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 09 Apr 2010 06:34 pm

Thanks. We`re off to the Bay of Naples and the Isle of Capri soon to recover !
In answer to Michelle , I just use a tiny Nikon Coolpix (the s550). Here`s another example of the lack of mechanisation --- the local cement mixer :-

He didn`t even have a scoop to lift the mixed stuff out of the bund ! It was hands & feet for everything.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 10 Apr 2010 12:16 pm

Each of these plates is made entirely by hand. No presses --no engraving machines :-

The patterns are hammered on using a small pointed piece of steel and a hammer.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Daffy » 10 Apr 2010 06:16 pm

Thank you once again for sharing your travels, I can't believe that cement mixer, poor chappie, very interesting though.

Daffy: Posts: 444; Joined: 01 Jul 2005 07:06 pm; Location: Billingham

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 11 Apr 2010 09:29 am

Cheers Daffy. Yes,these poor folk work long,hard hours for very little pay.
This is a tile factory :-

Again no mechanical aids. They work a 12 hour day & get paid 200 dirhams (about £16 ) a week.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 11 Apr 2010 11:29 am

It seems a very interesting place Ken but dont think I will be going there after what happened to you and your wife :shock:

:shock:

I will just wait for the information and photos (which are very good) from you

People here complain about having to go to work, looking at what they have to put up with we have nothing to complain about really....

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 11 Apr 2010 04:45 pm

That`s very true Wiccanwoman . Even at the main pottery in the city of Fez , everything seemed to be a thousand years behind the times. This was one of the very few machines we saw (if you can call it a machine !) :-

This guy was only one of many -- sat there in rows . He`d served a seven year apprenticeship to graduate to the best "machine" !

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 13 Apr 2010 12:22 pm

The pots , tiles etc. are then fired in these crude hand made kilns :-

They aren`t very eco-friendly. Each firing requires 3 tons of birch wood & a huge amount of smoke is given off.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 14 Apr 2010 10:36 am

The designs on the pottery are all drawn & coloured in by hand . They start thier apprecticeship at a very early age as you can see here :-

There were rows & rows of them --- all painting away thier 12 hour shifts.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 15 Apr 2010 08:29 am

Good photos Ken.

Can just see the young people here doing something like that !!!! :shock:

:shock:

They wouldnt know where to start ....

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 16 Apr 2010 09:35 am

Too true. There seems to be kids working everywhere in North Africa. Lots of them selling stuff as well. Also , sadly , many begging. Surprisingly many of them are begging for pencils ! I wish I`d taken a supply with me now.
Another fantastic feature of North Africa is the beautiful & intricate mosaic work. Here is the mosaic factory in action :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 16 Apr 2010 02:26 pm

And a few examples of the finished product :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Wiccan woman » 16 Apr 2010 03:46 pm

They are real craftsmen though, they produce amazing things.

When we were in the Gambia thats what everyone was saying to bring pencils, a few who had been to these places before brought quite a lot and gave them out which was really good. Its a shame they have to beg for something as simple as a pencil, but I bet they appreciate what they have.

Wiccan woman: Posts: 689; Joined: 14 Jan 2005 10:03 pm; Location: Shildon

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 17 Apr 2010 10:03 am

Yes--it is a shame. The travel companies & airlines should publicise this more.
Back to North African "industry" -- one of the most amazing scenes I`ve ever seen was the tanneries at Fez ( This must have been Tommy Cooper`s home town as most of the locals were wearing copies of his hat ! ). Pics later , but first -----
-- another of the many beautful city entrances (or "gates" ) to the ancient capital , Meknes :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 18 Apr 2010 06:43 pm

Even the local bus stop (sorry I mean donkey stop) was quite ornate :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 19 Apr 2010 12:02 pm

The eating places for the "man in the street" are extremely basic to say the least , but those for the priveleged are quite luxurious :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 19 Apr 2010 05:18 pm

In the Atlas mountains lies the furthest outpost of the Roman empire , the city of Volubilis :-

It survived until the seventeenth century when it was largely destroyed by an earthquake and now the only inhabitants are stalks :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 25 Apr 2010 03:27 pm

And yet more stalks ----- high in the Atlas mountains lies an unusual village called Ifrane. Because of its altitude and location it never gets overpoweringly hot in the summer. Hence the wealthy tend to live there , where they build their houses more along Swiss chalet style , rather than the usual African white cube.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 25 Apr 2010 03:27 pm

However , they hadn`t reckoned on one menace -- the stalk ! Every house had at least one nest --- usually over the chimney :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Michelle » 26 Apr 2010 04:56 pm

Wow. What brilliant pics (again) Ken. Please keep them coming.
Michelle

Michelle: Posts: 828; Joined: 27 Feb 2004 11:27 pm; Location: Wynyard

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 29 Apr 2010 09:37 am

One of the most amazing sights is that of the tannery at Fez. The area it covers is vast and again no mechanisation whatsoever. The hides are scraped clean by hand , water is collected on roofs and fed to the vats by gravity and even the vats themselves are made by hand . This is the area where the base slurry is prepared :-

And adjoining it is the dyeing area :-

Its not advisable for visitors to enter this area without a bunch of mint to crush & keep held beneath the nostrils. Otherwise you`re almost certain to retch or vomit at the indescribable stench.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 30 Apr 2010 11:32 am

And yet another local trade -- hand making wedding carriages :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by WillyLad » 02 May 2010 11:14 am

Excellent tour Ken. Brilliant pics & very informative. Any more ?

WillyLad: Posts: 198; Joined: 04 Jul 2004 09:33 am; Location: Ex Willington

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 04 May 2010 01:56 pm

Just a few now. Here`s the Royal Palce at Fez :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 04 May 2010 01:59 pm

The mausoleum at Rabat :-

In which lies the tomb of Mohammed v :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 05 May 2010 04:51 pm

In some suburbs are lovely little streets of blue & white houses :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 05 May 2010 04:53 pm

And finally --- just a few colourful scenes of Moroccan life :-

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Ken » 05 May 2010 04:57 pm

-- & that`s all folks.

Ken.

Ken: Posts: 4033; Joined: 26 Feb 2004 11:32 pm; Location: Redcar

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Kristof » 07 May 2010 06:31 pm

Well done Ken, another interesting and colourful journey.

Thank you.

Kristof: Posts: 1063; Joined: 01 May 2005 10:57 am; Location: Billingham

Re: Ken`s MARCH Postcard.

by Michelle » 23 May 2010 04:42 pm

Couldn`t agree more . What a variety of interesting travels !
Michelle

Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)