Thursday, 26 February 2004

Poland (1)



This is my 3rd & longest trip of the year ( 4 more to come yet ). I wont be back from here till mid August but my wife has returned home now (horse to see to) and my son & family are looking after things at home as well.A mate of mine will be joining me in a few days time.
I might as well make it another little puzzle with a few clues first.
This is actually more of a pilgrimage for me rather than a holiday but it really is quite lovely here. A highly underrated country and this particular city at which I started my tour is the most interesting and beautiful of the hundreds I`ve visited across the world.
Thankfully the temperature has dropped from the 40 degrees of the first day & is now a pleasant 30. The food is excellent , prices ridiculously low (about a fiver for a 3 course meal in a good restaurant) and a good pint will set you back 60p !
There are relatively few cars on the road -- here`s a pic I took last night of a minibus near the centre of the city :-

Image

More later tonight if I`ve time -- if not then hopefully tomorrow.

Ken.

Last edited by Ken on 25 Aug 2007 10:57 am, edited 2 times in total.


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Postby Douglas » 24 Jul 2007 08:38 am
Is it Tirana in Albania Ken?


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Postby Ken » 24 Jul 2007 10:37 am
Not quite Douglas -- although it does share the same longitude.
I took this one just outside my hotel. This was the lovely walk into the old town, along the banks of the Vistula with the temperature now a pleasant 25 degrees throughout the evening & a nice gentle breeze :-

Image

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Postby Douglas » 24 Jul 2007 12:11 pm
Is it Krakow in Poland Ken?


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Postby Ken » 24 Jul 2007 02:59 pm
Yes. Spot on Douglas -- its Crakow. Here is a corner of the huge Rynek (main square) which is about 5 times bigger than Prague`s & just as beautiful:-

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Postby Firefly » 24 Jul 2007 06:19 pm
That looks lovely Ken. i was wondering when youd be of again on your travels. i do look forward to these. i was going to guess at Russia or Hungary as i read that theirs been a heat wave over there but Douglas beat me to it.
Look forward to more.
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Postby Ken » 24 Jul 2007 07:15 pm
Cheers Babs. I didn`t have a wide angled camera & couldn`t get the whole square in so I`ve taken the liberty of posting this one taken from a postcard if only to do the place justice :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 24 Jul 2007 09:07 pm


Michelle wrote:Nice pics Ken. Any more on the city would be appreciated.

More tomorrow if time. Off out now but in the meantime here`s another little quiz one.
This factory has remained untouched since 1945(apart from an extra set of windows in the office area) & isn`t accessible yet to the public. I had a private guide who told me you could bribe the security guards . I got in for 20 Zlotys. The city has now got a grant to convert it into a museum & although work will start soon , I`m told it will be a couple of years before its open ( & even then the office will only be viewable from the door & window) .Here`s Ken sat at the desk in one of the best known offices from WW2 history. :-

Image

Who`s office was it ?

Ken.


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Postby Douglas » 25 Jul 2007 08:24 am
I believe that is the office of Oscar Schindler.


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Postby Ken » 25 Jul 2007 09:45 am
Yes. Spot on , Douglas :-

Image

Off out now before the day heats up again. Perhaps a few more this evening if time.

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Postby Black Knight » 25 Jul 2007 06:34 pm
You`ve really excelled yourself this time Ken . I`d love to visit Krakow where it all took place ......but to get into the actual factory as well !!
I rate Schindler`s List as the best film I`ve ever seen. I`ve read the book as well. His efforts virtually saved the Jewish race from oblivion in Europe. I read somewhere that the majority of surviving Jews in Europe are direct or indirect descendants of Schindlers workforce. Is the ghetto still there ? or the concentration camp at Plaszow where that ****** Goeth took potshots at the inmates from his Balcony ?
If it wasnt for the fact that I still have to earn a crust for a few years yet , I`d take you up on your offer to join the rest of your explorations.
Are you visiting Auschwitz as well ?
B.K.


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Postby Daffy » 26 Jul 2007 10:22 am
Ken this is fantastic, thank you so much for sharing your travels and hope to see some more over the coming weeks. As BK says excellent, :D Daffy


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Postby Kattaddorra » 26 Jul 2007 10:42 am
I love armchair travelling (well computer chair travelling really) seeing all the places I'd never see otherwise!
I can travel the world on this forum, without feeling travel sick :lol:
Katt


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Postby Ken » 27 Jul 2007 12:28 am
Cheers Daffy,B.K. & Katt. As I said in my opening post , this is a pilgrimage rather than a holiday , although I had a lovely time (particularly in the evenings) whilst my wife was here.
The Schindler trail & factory was only the smallest of three "missions". The 2nd & main one has now been achieved as well and was a dreadful experience.
I`ll post some of the less "disturbing" pics later but in the meantime I`ll select a few more nice ones of the lovely Crakow.
My third "mission" starts much further east next week.
This is the entrance gate to the "Old town" :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 27 Jul 2007 12:52 am
This pic was taken just inside that northern gate. If any of you have read "The Kommandant`s Girl" , the cafe which the Polish resistance blew up is just on the left hand side :-

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The tower you see in front is that of a gothic church in the main square.
For over 800 years a look-out(no B.K. --not the same one!) has stood guard near the top with a trumpet at the ready.
Sadly when he spotted invading troops he was shot in the chest as he blew the warning tune.
Ever since a trumpeter plays that tune , on the hour --every hour , through all 4 tower windows. The melody stops short just at the point at which the original look-out was shot.

Image

You can see the end of his trumpet as a tiny white dot in the upper open window.

Ken.


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Postby Ken » 28 Jul 2007 09:29 pm
Crakow is so clean. The toilets are spotless , there`s no litter and almost every street is washed several times a day :-

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Postby Ken » 28 Jul 2007 09:44 pm
The city centre (the old town) is quite compact and surrounded by a wooded area called the "Planty" . Its quite dense at the western side :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 28 Jul 2007 09:52 pm
But sparse at the eastern side ( which leads to the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz) :-

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Postby Firefly » 28 Jul 2007 10:49 pm
How lovly Ken. How id like to see places like that. I even got an old atlas out to see where these places are. if i cant go myself its so nice to see these on this website. like kattadora says at least i enjoy the armchair traveling
Babs


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Postby Chiana » 29 Jul 2007 08:58 pm
I never go abroad, so it's nice to see the different places you go to Ken. The pictures tell a story in themselves at times. :D


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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 09:41 pm
I`m afraid Chiana that the next few tell a very tragic story though.
Like many other members of the forum, I was very moved by the experiences of local girl Kitty Hart, etc. and went on to learn much more about the nazi treatment of the Jews . I vowed one day to go out there to pay my respects to the poor souls who perished in such an indescribable way in The Holocaust.
I enjoyed my stay in the lovely Crakow and was fascinated following the Schindler trail but this next part was heart-breaking and humbling.
It starts here :-

Image

I had a private guide & we started early on a hot & humid morning before the day`s visitors arrived. You can only part read the "welcoming" sign at this gateway to hell ,as I had to take pic into the sun, but I`m sure most will recognise the infamous "ARBEIT MACHT FREI".

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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 10:06 pm
This is Auschwitz 1 . I`ll move on to Auschwitz 2 ( often known as Birkenau ) later.
The nazi`s destroyed much documentation when the camps were about to be liberated . It can be proved that 1.3 million were murdered here but the truer estimate is nearer 6 million.
Steven Spielberg said of the few survivors :- " They cannot forget , and we must not do so either". How true.
Unlike Auschwitz 2 , Auschwitz 1 was built of brick :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 10:43 pm
I wore long trousers for this visit out of respect but how I longed for my shorts :-

Image

I was soaked & drank 2 litres of water through the morning .I felt ashamed to even think of my discomfort when told of those forced to stand all day facing the blazing sun without a drop.
How they must have longed for even a spoonful to whet their lips.

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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 10:53 pm
This is the "medical" block , in which Dr.Mengele carried out his dreadful experiments :-

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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 11:07 pm
Contrary to popular belief the gas chambers were not all destroyed by the nazi`s when they knew defeat was inevitable :-

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I entered through a small heavy air-tight doorway. It was dimly lit in there & very dank. The square shapes you see on top of the mound were the hatches through which the nazi`s dropped the Zyklon B.
How can I describe the ghosts of lost souls in there ------

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Postby Ken » 29 Jul 2007 11:41 pm
I need to carefully think now wether its right & proper to post the rest of my pics of Auschwitz 1 . The tortures ,the piles of human hair waiting to go to the German textile factories, the prosthetic limbs, the huge piles of suitcases -- each with their owners name & address painted on them, the piles of spectacles,hundreds of thousands of shoes, etc., etc.
I saw almost a million ladies dresses --- stolen in cold blood waiting to be cleaned for use by German women.
These will haunt me forever.
Man`s inhumanity ----------------


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Postby Michelle » 30 Jul 2007 09:24 am
Yes. It makes sad reading Ken. But as you say "We must not forget them."
Michelle


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Postby Kristof » 30 Jul 2007 04:30 pm
I know what you mean Ken. I have always wanted to visit Auschwitz, but don't know if I could hold myself together during my stay. Being an ex squaddie I tend to get a bit emotional just wandering around a war cemetery reading the head stones.

For now I will continue to enjoy following your journey and your excellent photos.

I agree that we should never let the holocaust be forgotten and let it be a warning not to allow anything like it to happen again.


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Postby Rosebudkid » 30 Jul 2007 08:21 pm
Ken,
The pictures of Auschwitz remind us all of the horrific events that were perpetrated by the Nazis and the fact that you have been able to put down your feelings as you stood in the footsteps of the victims paint a most poignant picture.
I am sure the memories of your pilgrimage will remain with you for a very long time.

Your postings have reminded us all of the depths to which man can sink unless men and women of courage are prepared to stand against evil.


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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 10:03 pm
Thank you Rosebudkid. I think its best to leave Auschwitz 1 now --- and with an appropriate pic of the gallows there , on which Rudolph Hoess , one of the overseers of these crimes against humanity , was hung.

Image

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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 10:23 pm
When the nazi`s decided to exterminate the Jewish race completely ("The Final Solution"), they had to dramatically expand their death factory.
Auschwitz 2 ( Birkenau ) was built next door. Its vastness is beyond belief.
Here is the infamous entrance with the railway line used to transport cattle trains of victims into the camp :-

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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 10:26 pm
My guide arranged for me to go up that entrance tower to get some perspective as to how big Birkenau was. Here`s a photo I took from inside the tower :-

Image

It shows the continuation of the railway into the camp to the platform where the "selection" took place.
Those thought capable of "work" were taken into the camp. The rest ( i.e. the majority -- the old,weak,sick,diabled and children ) were "selected" straight to the gas chambers. I sometimes thought that they were the fortunate ones.

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Postby Nortonbeak » 30 Jul 2007 10:56 pm


Ken wrote:The rest ( i.e. the majority -- the old,weak,sick,diabled and children ) went straight to the gas chambers. I sometimes thought that they were the fortunate ones.

I don't think that there can be anything "fortunate" about being executed, just because of your religion, or, for that matter, the religion of your parents.

We should always remember the dreadful deeds that were perpetrated by these people and strive never to let a situation deteriorate to that level again.


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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 11:15 pm
A fair point Nortonbeak. I did of course mean "fortunate" compared to those who had to endure so much more suffering.
ALL of these poor souls must have been the most unfortunate on God`s earth.
Birkenau stretches for further than the eye can see. Hundreds and hundreds of rows of wooden "blocks".

Image

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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 11:25 pm
Each block contained up to forty triple bunks sleeping 5 to a bunk --- 600 people to a block :-

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The bunks were in one half and the communal toilets in the other :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 30 Jul 2007 11:41 pm
We leave this tragic memorial now :-

Image

and tomorrow explore the incredible salt mines at Wieliczka.

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Postby Michelle » 01 Aug 2007 09:18 pm
Great. Keep them coming , Ken.
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Postby Ken » 02 Aug 2007 10:09 pm
Salt has been mined at Wieliczka for over a thousand years :-

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The mine is vast , its galleries now stretching for about 200 miles & reaching a depth of 1,000 ft.
There are about 3,000 chambers connected by tunnels. The chambers contain incredible statues , freezes , everyday mining scenes, etc. all carved out of salt by the miners. They even carved out many chapels & churches in which to worship before starting their dangerous work and during their meal breaks.


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Postby Ken » 02 Aug 2007 10:22 pm
Photography was quite difficult in some of the chambers so my pics don`t really do the sculpures justice. Here`s a nativity scene in one of the chapels :-

Image

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Postby Ken » 02 Aug 2007 10:34 pm
---- and a chandelier in another :-

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Postby Ken » 02 Aug 2007 10:51 pm
St.Barbara -- patron saint of miners :-

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Postby Ken » 02 Aug 2007 11:28 pm
The magnificent great church :-

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Postby Ken » 03 Aug 2007 12:06 am
On the wall of which is a 3-D carving of The Last Supper :-

Image

Quite remarkable when you consider that all this was sculptered in the salt walls by miners .

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Postby Kattaddorra » 03 Aug 2007 09:59 am
They are amazing photos Ken, they really are !!!!! The prison camp ones sent shivers down my spine,we must never forget what those poor souls suffered.Folk of today who moan about their lot should be shown those photos and maybe they'd realise just how lucky we are !
Katt


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Postby Daffy » 03 Aug 2007 06:51 pm
Ken thank you again for sharing your travels with us, this is fantastic, please keep them coming. :D
Daff


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Postby Ken » 04 Aug 2007 07:05 pm
Thanks all who appreciated this topic.

kattaddorra wrote:---- we must never forget what those poor souls suffered.
Katt

I went there to remember -- but now I can`t forget.

We move further east soon & I doubt if I`ll have access to a computer next week. In the meantime here`s a last couple of pics from the Wieliczka salt mine .
Although the miners were relatively well treated over the centuries , it was nevertheless a hazardous task and many died from flooding and methane explosions.
Drainage at that depth was ( & still is) a constant problem. Drainage systems soon become coated with salt & clog up :-
Image

Methane gas built up in every chamber and one of the most harzardous jobs was that of the "Penitent" :-

Image

He carried a lighted torch on a long pole and probed the upper reaches of the chamber. If he was lucky there would be a flash or a small bang.
If he was unlucky ----------- ?

Ken.


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Postby WillyLad » 04 Aug 2007 10:14 pm
What an interesting website this is. your photos are stunning Ken and the stories with them make them even better. As all the other members have already said . thanks for sharing them.
Bill.
ps I looked up Zlotys and 20 is about 4 quid.


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Postby Rosebudkid » 06 Aug 2007 08:48 pm
Of all the gruesomely fascinatingly photos you have posted Ken, I found the one of the bunks quite appalling. To think that human beings were kept in such conditions beggars belief and although it is dreadful to look at I am glad you took the picture to show how cheap life was under the Nazis.


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Postby Ken » 09 Aug 2007 11:59 pm
It wasn`t just the unprecedented scale of their atrocities, Rosebudkid,but the extreme cruelty and gleeful,gratuitous manner in which they carried it out.( And in a so-called civilised society and era).
My guide was a wealth of knowledge and pointed me in the direction of an old lady who survived Auschwitz (thanks to Schindler). She`s recorded the true story and her experiences and I obtained a copy which she signed personally -- Stella Muller-Madej . She`s tattooed on the arm with her Auschwitz number 76372 .
I wont mention the horrors inflicted on her and her comrades, but I will quote a few of her own words from her memoirs re the bunks you mention :-
" Winter was so cruel to us , but now we cannot endure the heat.Standing on the "apelplatz" for hours without a scrap of shade or a drop of water are bad enough but the nights are worse.
The atmosphere is stifling and the barracks are ruled by bedbugs,not to mention the lice which thrive in the hot weather and are crawling everywhere and all over us."

I`ve left Auschwitz now but the memories will haunt me forever.

The final part of my "mission" also involves much suffering but is mainly a tribute to those who perished in the Warsaw Ghetto & also the the heroic Polish freedom fighters and their great courage against all odds.

Ken

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Postby Ken » 10 Aug 2007 12:06 am
I`ve met so many Polish people now and find them the most hard working , kind and helpful people I`ve come across. I`ll describe a bit about their general way of life and post a couple of pics of rural Poland later.
Its still very hot & I`ve been bitten quite badly again by mosquitoes whilst travelling along the Vistula river.
However , we`re much farther east now and living in comfort & style. Here`s a pic I`ve just taken from my bedroom window :-

Image

Ken



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